Unlocking the Mystery of your Oven

Ever notice how a potato in boiling water cooks a LOT faster than a potato in the oven? A whole potato might take 20 minutes in water at around 200 degrees, where a potato may take an hour or longer at twice that temperature.

Potato’s are one of the worst conductors of heat in the food kingdom. All sorts of studies have been executed trying to figure out the perfect way to cook this darn thing. And they all point to the same result, spuds take forever to cook. It’s this slow transfer of heat that caused the Belgians to come up with a double frying strategy for spuds, once at 325 F, and another at 375 F, to counteract the slow transfer of heat. The lower initial cooking method cooks the spud through, and the higher temperature browns the exterior.

How does all this relate to an oven?

Let’s talk a little bit about the factors that help an oven cook food.

The first factor is a bunch of hot air. Air is a TERRIBLE conductor of heat (ever stuck your hand in a 212 degree oven, and then in a boiling pot of water (also 212). Where the oven seems uncomfortably warm, the water will give you serious burns. Even though they’re both the same temperature, the results are dramatically different. Therein lies the challenge with air as a method of cooking. It doesn’t get the job done. It’s no wonder that the phrase “a bunch of hot air” means a lot of hype, but no action.

The second influence is the motion of the air in your oven. Think of this as a reverse windchill. A 32 degree day may seem nice with no wind, but when it’s combined with a 30 mile per hour gale, it seems a LOT colder than it is. As your oven elements cycle off and on, air warms and cools. This creates a natural convection in your oven that forces hot air molecules into your food. Although this cycle in a normal oven occurs at a very low speed, it has a significant impact on transferring heat from the air of your oven to your food.

The last, and most important part of cooking your food in an oven is the infrared radiation emitted by the heating elements and oven enclosure itself (walls/ceiling). Radiation does more to cook your food than both of the previous factors combined. To prove this, try holding your hand in the middle of a 300 degree oven with the element off, then try it again with the element on. Although the temperature in the oven is close to the same in both scenarios, you’re MUCH more likely to get burned when the element is on. This same radiation makes wearing a black shirt on a sunny day a bad idea. This same radiation that causes dark pans to burn the bottom of your cake. It’s blocking this radiation that prevents sunburns, and burned pie crust edges.

The way that infrared radiation is emitted is not linear. So if you increase the temperature of your oven by 10%, you won’t see a 10% increase in radiation. The total radiation will increase by the absolute temperature to the fourth power. In other words… a LOT. For more discussion on this, please read this article on blackbody radiation and this article on the Stefan-Boltsmann Law. It’s important to note that the sides and back of your oven are radiating heat near to the temperature of the air in the oven, but the heating element is roughly 2000 degrees. Something to think about next time you stick your hand into the oven while the element is on.

So what does this mean to the average person?

1 – Just because the air in your oven is to temperature, doesn’t mean that the walls and ceilings of the oven are hot enough to properly cook your food. If you’ve ever made cookies and noticed that the more batches you make, the shorter your cooking time is? The walls and ceilings of the oven are finally emitting enough infrared heat to help in the cooking process. To get more consistent results, let your oven go at least 15 minutes after it’s been preheated before you begin cooking. (I know some chefs that swear you should go at least an hour).

2 – Consider the type of dish you will be cooking your food in and how it will absorb radiation. Dark metals will absorb much more heat, meaning a pizza with a killer crust. On the flip side, it can also mean the bottom of your cookies will be burned before the cookie is cooked through. By understanding a lighter pan will cook slower, and a darker pan will cook faster, you’ll be able to tailor your pan selection to get the best results.

3 – The side of the food exposed to the heating element will always cook faster. If you’re making two pans of cookies at a time, the top pan will always be browned on top before the bottom pan (assuming you’re using similar pans). However, the bottom pan will have a browner cookie bottom. To account for these differences, switch your product halfway through. You’ll get better results.

4 – Aluminum Foil prevents burning. After all, it’s reflective nature will prevent the infrared radiation from coming into contact with either your pan, or your food, depending on where you place the foil. Once the power of the radiation has been diminished, the miniscule effects of air temperature and convection will be left to do the work. Many a Thanksgiving turkey has been saved from burnt skin by a well placed piece of foil, at just the right time. (Just make sure your foil isn’t touching your food, or it will still transfer heat).

In closing, I know of some people that put unglazed quarry tiles in the bottom of their oven, and let it preheat for 30 minutes or more. The tiles do a pretty good job holding heat, preventing the oven from cycling on and off when the door is opened. In my experience, this practice does a great job at creating consistent results in applications where a well done bottom crust (such as pizza) aren’t important.

Then again, you can always put the pizza directly on the quarry tiles.

Easy Mint Chocolate Cake

Ingredients:

1 cube butter

10 oz semi sweet chocolate

5 eggs

1¼ cup sugar

5 Tbsp. flour

1½ tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. mint extract

Instructions: 

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a saucepan over low heat melt chocolate and butter. Stir frequently

While chocolate/butter are melting, Combine eggs and sugar in a separate bowl and mix until creamy and pale yellow.

Sift flour and baking powder into egg/sugar mixture and mix to combine.

Once chocolate is completely melted, gently fold into the egg/sugar mixture.

Stir in mint extract.

Pour batter into a buttered and floured 9″ springform pan.

Bake at 325 for 20 minutes, then lightly cover with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes more.

Garnish with crushed mint candy canes and whipped cream.

Artichoke and Sun Dried Tomato Palmiers


1 pkg. puff pastry
2/3 cup sun roasted tomatoes
2/3 cup artichoke hearts
2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 egg (beaten)
Flour for dusting

Let the puff pastry warm to room temperature.

Using an ample amount of flour, roll each pastry sheet into a 12″ X 14″ rectangle

In a bowl, combine tomatoes, artichokes, cheese, and oil. Mix well, and then chop in either a blender /food processor or with a sharp knife.

Spread 1/2 the mixture on each sheet of puff pastry, leaving a 1″ gap on the edges, and lightly press the filling in.

With the short end if the pastry directly facing you, fold the outer edges until they meet in the middle. Fold the entire pasty one more time.

Place the pastry roll in the fridge for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400.

Remove the pastry roll, and cut into 1/2″ wide pieces. Place each piece on a pastry sheet, spacing them at least 3″ apart.

Bake at 400 for 15-17 minutes until just lightly browned.

Move them to a cooling rack as soon as possible

Makes a great appetizer!

Goat Cheese and Banana Squash Tart

I LOVE the flavors of pumpkin pie, but get bored with the same old pumpkin year after year. This updated version of a pumpkin pie gives everyone an individual portion of a rich and delicious fall treat. Be careful when cooking the custard not to overheat it. Once it thickens, remove it from the heat before it curdles. Although the corn starch will give you a little broader heat range before curdling, it is still possible to end up with a clumpy custard if attention to temperature isn’t taken.

The result of this recipe? A chewy, slightly spicy crust, with a rich delicious custard.

Crust
1/2 cup graham cracker crust
1 tbs Butter
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp dried chipotle pepper
Honey

Custard
2 cups cubed banana squash (you can also use butternut or pumpkin)
3-4 oz package of goat cheese (chevre)
1 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup whipping cream
1/4 cup honey
8 egg yolks
Pinch of salt
1 tsp corn starch
1 tsp vanilla

To make the crust:
Preheat oven to 350.
Combine all ingredients, except the honey, and mix well.
Separate the pie crust mix into 5 individual 6 oz ramekins and lightly tamp into place, forming a layer along the bottom of the ramekin.
Bake for 5 minutes.
Remove from oven and lightly drizzle honey across the top of the graham cracker crust, making a thin layer along the top of the crust. Return to the oven and bake for 5-10 minutes, until crust just starts to turn brown.
Remove from oven and cool.

The custard filling:
Heat 2 quarts water in a saucepan to a near boil. Add the squash and cook until tender. Cool by draining the water, and then adding ice cubes and fresh water to the sauce pan, or by putting in a single layer in your fridge. Drain squash.
While the squash is cooking combine goat cheese, sugar, cream, vanilla, honey, egg yolks, salt, and corn starch in either a blender or food processor.
Once the squash is cooled, add to the goat cheese mixture, and process until completely pureed.
In a 2 quart saucepan, add the custard mix and cook over medium heat, whisking frequently. Cook until custard thickens (this will happen almost instantly upon reaching a temp of 180). Take care to not overcook or egg yolks may curdle.

Add the custard filling to the ramekins and refrigerate.

Top with whipped cream and freshly grated nutmeg.

Kalamata Lentils

Lentils can be tricky to work with as they tend to split easily. The trick, don’t bring them to a boil. If you can keep your water in the 170-180 degree range you’ll get almost no lentil split.

It will take a little longer for your lentils to be done, but the pleasure your tongue feels as it bursts open each individual lentil is worth the wait!

Kalamata Lentils include:
16 oz dried lentils
1 minced shallot
2 leeks, with the dark green portions discarded and chopped into 1/2″ sections
5 peeled and chopped carrots
1 whole tomato, diced
1/2 cup kalamata olives, rough chopped
2 cloves of minced garlic
2 big handfuls of fresh spinach
1 Tbs minced fresh rosemary
Salt to taste

Cook lentils at optimal temperature in at least 8 cups of water. Cook until tender.

While the lentils are cooking, add shallot and garlic to a large frypan, cook until transluscent.

Add carrots, tomatoes and leeks, stirring occasionally for 4-5 minutes.

Add spinach to the veggies and stir. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice.

Once lentils are cooked, drain the water.

Add all cooked veggies to the lentils.

Add olives, rosemary and salt.

Stir and enjoy!

Truffle Parmesan Popcorn

Truffle Parmesan

4 qts popped popcorn

2 Tbs White Truffle oil

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Salt to taste

Combine all ingredients and toss to incorporate. Salt to taste.

Lime and Chili Popcorn

4 qts popped popcorn
1/4 cup melted butter
Zest and juice from a lime
1 tsp chipotle
Salt to taste

Preheat the oven to 300F degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.

Put the popcorn in a large, clean paper bag. In a medium-size bowl whisk together the butter, lime juice and zest.

Drizzle half of the butter mixture over the popcorn, fold over the top of the bag, and shake until the popcorn is coated and moist. Add more of the butter mixture and give a second shake. Sprinkle the pepper mixture over the popcorn, fold over the top of the bag, and shake a few times to coat.

Spread the popcorn evenly over the baking sheet and bake until the popcorn is dry, five to seven minutes.

“Stuffing” Popcorn

4 qts popped popcorn
1/4 cup melted buttter
1 tsp dry rubbed sage
1 tsp poultry seasoning
1/2 tsp garlic salt
Salt to taste

Mix sage, garlic salt, and poultry seasoning together in a small bowl.

Drizzle half of the butter mixture over the popcorn, fold over the top of the bag, and shake until the popcorn is coated and moist. Add more of the butter mixture and give a second shake. Sprinkle the sage/poultry seasoning mixture over the popcorn, fold over the top of the bag, and shake a few times to coat.

Pork Chops a la Reagan

After 9 years, my good friend Reagan is leaving Good Things Utah to be a stay at home mom. I could think of no better tribute than to name a recipe after her. Like Reagan, this recipe is approachable, and warm.

4 center cut pork chops
4 Tbsp. butter
5 fresh sage leaves, minced
8 quartered fresh mission figs
Juice ½ lemon

Pan fry the pork chops until they reach an internal temperature of at least 160 degrees.

Remove the pork chops, put them on a plate, and cover the plate loosely with foil.

Add the butter and sage to the now empty pork chop pan and cook over medium heat until butter starts to turn brown. Turn heat to low, and add figs and lemon, stir just until figs are warm.

Remove pork chops from foil, and top with quartered figs, and a generous amount of brown butter sauce.

Yeast FAQ

Making bread can be scary. The combination of yeast, water, and flour can be incredibly delicious, or incredibly disappointing. Will it rise? Will it fall? With just a few tips and tricks, you can be guaranteed that your yeast will thrive!

What type of yeast is best to use?
Active Dry Yeast – Larger granules, and smaller amounts of live yeast. Takes longer to rise, and is more sensitive to heat. Keeps longer than all other types of yeast (up to a decade when frozen).
Instant/Rapid Rise Yeast – smaller granules that dissolve quicker in water with more live yeast. Quicker to activate and rise. Only keeps for up to 6 months.

Is there a secret to how much yeast to add my dough?
Recipes vary SO much on the amount of yeast. Although the general rule is 1 teaspoon for every 4 cups of yeast. However, this is an area where precise measurements aren’t as important. Since yeast is a living (and carbon dioxide expelling) organism, if you run a little short on yeast, it will take a little longer to rise. If you add too much, it will rise quicker. But unless you start adding yeast by the tablespoon you’ll be fine.

What temperature is best to use when working with yeast?
This is an interesting question, as yeast is generally pretty resilient. Active Dry yeast works best in tepid water (70-90 degrees), where Instant/Rapid Rise yeast works best if added to water between 100 and 120 degrees. When it comes time to let your yeast rise, it will act quickest in a humid environment between 80 and 90 degrees.

What type of water works best with yeast?
Yeast is finicky about the type of water it works in. In scientific terms, it likes a mineral content between 100 and 200 parts per million. Soft water is usually less than 50 parts per million, and well water can be above 200 parts per million.
If your bread doesn’t seem to rise well, consider working with a reverse osmosis filtered water (also called purified water). Think water like: Dasani or Aquafina. Avoid mineral and spring water, as it tends to have more dissolved solids than 200 parts per million.

What about salt and yeast?
Salt is an ENEMY of yeast. When added to your dough too early, it actually slows the way that yeast acts. So add salt as late as possible in your recipe for best results.